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The first thing to know is that radio control aircraft operate on the 35 MHz frequency. Therefore the radio that you may already have for a boat or car, being as it undoubtedly operates on 40Mhz, will most definitely NOT be suitable for a model aircraft! What is more, using the incorrect frequency radio for your model is not only potentially dangerous, it is illegal and attracts extremely expensive fines!

You also need to decide what channel you are going to use. Currently, channels 55 to 90 of the 35Mhz frequency band are reserved for model aircraft use. Go down to the club field and find out which are the most popular channels. And avoid them like the plague! There is nothing more frustrating than to arrive at the field and find someone with a thermal-soarer glider on the same channel as yourself. You could be waiting half an hour or more before you are able to fly!

Older 27Mhz radio gear can be used but, because this frequency can be used for both ground (land & water) and air models there is a strong chance that you could suffer interference (and a crash!). The only aircraft allowed by the club to use this frequency are unpowered gliders and lightweight electric 'Park Flier' type models.

The latest technology and frequency allocations now also allow us to use radio control equipment on the 2.4Ghz frequency for all r/c models. This has the benefit of vastly more available channels and, due to the way that it operates, completely does away with having to decide which channel to use. However, be aware that the equipment intended for use in cars and boats has a shorter range than that designed for aircraft.

You will need at least four channels. You could use a radio set with three, or even just two, channels but you will quickly discover that you really need a minimum of four channels, controlling rudder, elevator, ailerons and power. (Leave the retracts and flaps for another day!). You do not need a fully-computerised system. A standard radio system with servo reversing and dual-rate controls is more than adequate to start with. Nowadays, even some of the more modestly-priced systems have a degree of computerisation. Often there are special offers on these systems at the major events. You will of course need a receiver, charger, battery pack and servos to go with the transmitter. These all come as a combo so don't be tempted to mix-and-match and buy all the items individually. Buy a complete boxed set. You will then be assured that the various components match and will work correctly together.

As to which make to buy, that is up to you. Get some advice from others at the club and see what they are using. (Somebody may even have a set for sale!) Once a particular manufacturer is decided upon most members tend to stay with their particular choice as the plugs and chargers are all interchangeable.

Transmitters are getting more complex. It is now possible to alter the throw and trim of the servos from the transmitter. Mixing of the control surfaces for acrobatic manoeuvres is also common on these transmitters. If you want to pay for one of these complicated transmitters whilst learning that is up to you but you really will not need it for some time.

Rapid charging of the batteries is another area which is becoming possible. NiCad and NiMh cells can both be charged within one hour or so using suitable chargers, which definitely helps if one forgets to charge-up the night before!